Showing posts with label italy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label italy. Show all posts

Wednesday, August 3, 2011

Italy Through Literature: Physicality & Spirituality

Italy is a sensual place, a corporeal place. It is a land that assaults one’s senses with sights and smells and tastes and sounds. In a sense, it is a sacramental place, that is, all of this deep sensory connection points to the presence of the Creator. That Italy is a place for the sacred is nothing new. For millennia people have felt here a deep connection with that which is divine. From the Etruscans through the Romans into Christianity, Italy has always been marked by an acute awareness of the sacred. Perhaps this is no better expressed than at Sant’ Antimo, where Gregorian chant wafts out of the abbey church, which is nestled among the breathtaking Tuscan landscape. It is this kind of intimate connection between the natural environment and the divine that led St. Francis to praise God through Brother Sun, Sister Water, Mother Earth, and Brother Wind. Indeed, many a writer has found Italy, with all of its sensual sacredness, to be the proper inspiration and context for his pieces. Tomasi’s The Leopard, Forster’s Where Angels Fear to Tread, and Ondaatje’s The English Patient are among the many works of literature that effectively use Italy as a context for exploring the sacred.


From the first lines, the reader is already quite aware that The Leopard will deal with matters of the sacred. From these same lines the reader is also made aware of the novel’s intent to explore the relation of death and the sacred. With the Rosary barely finished, another aspect of the sacred is introduced: pagan gods and goddesses. These divinities, painted on the ceiling, “awake” at the conclusion of the Rosary, to reign until the next day’s recitation of that same Marian devotion. Tomasi’s discussion of these pagan divinities in the midst of Christian piety sets the scene for the reader, underscoring that, while Italy is a Christian land, the legacy of Rome lives on. This points to a deeper reality existing in Sicily: there are certain kinds of ‘gods’ who reign on the island, living a shared life with the religious orthodoxy of Christianity. That is to say, the Sicilian mindset or character and even the Sicilian nobility, are kinds of sacred, almost divine, institutions that have the permanency of gods. Thus, it is made clear that, while political things have changed, no revolution, no army is able to alter that which makes Sicily, Sicily.


The progress promised by the Risorgimento stands in opposition to the sacred, in some sense. This is the reason for Fr. Pirrone’s opposition to the new order, as he understands that what happened in England and France will be repeated in Italy. The Risorgimento promises a kind of secularism, yet it is made clear that, Sicily, at least, will always have her gods, hence Tancredi’s comment: “If things are to stay as they are, things will have to change.” This is a kind of indictment on modernity that promises such change and progress, but ultimately cannot unseat the gods of the old way of doing things in Sicily. Thus, the elections are rigged and while the house of Salina does decline, no one is made to feel any terrible discomfort, and the nobility’s legacy is, in a sense, carried on by the likes of Caligero, the new aristocrats who will continue to operate according to the old ways. These gods, then, that rule Sicily may be more likened to ghosts that haunt the island.


The novel’s treatment of death is perhaps the most poignant example of how Italy serves well as a context for the sacred. The motif of death permeates the work, even from the first line “Nunc et in hora mortis nostrae. Amen.” This interplay of death and the sacred is expressed in a number of ways. The most obvious use of death as a motif is to examine the supposed death of the old order when Italy becomes a modern, unified republican state. The irony, perhaps, is that much of the old way of doing things will live on, just as the legacy of Rome’s pagan deities lives on in the midst of Christianity. Fabrizio, then becomes a symbol of this. He, as a Jove-like figure, is seen to be dying in the final pages of the novel. Italy once again serves well as the scene for this drama, as Fabrizio witnessing a priest bringing Viaticum through the streets foreshadows the prince’s own death. Then, on his own deathbed, Fabrizio himself hears the bells indicating the bringing of the last Sacrament. Yet, in his death, Fabrizio, in seeing a kind of Venus-Maria Stella conflation, is almost assured a certain immortality that is not unlike the ‘gods’ of the stars he had so carefully studied.


The same omnipresent sense of the sacred that is found in The Leopard is also used by Forster in his Where Angels Fear to Tread. Herein, one sees the importance of choosing Italy as the setting and context for a novel. However brilliantly woven, one cannot help but set a story of the Risorgimento in Italy. Yet, a critique of British social order at the turn of the century need not be set in a place so removed from Sawston. The choice of Italy, and in particular rural Italy, as the location for the unfolding drama is important in several respects. Firstly, Italy as a sacred place allows Forster’s characters to become enchanted, converted, and transformed, something very necessary for these British gentry who cannot escape the disillusionment of life in Sawston. In Italy, Phillip, Caroline, and for a time even Lilia can find transcendence through that which is ordinarily beautiful, in a very physical sense: a medieval piazza, a Tuscan vista. Mrs. Herriton can never experience such transcendence because she remains in domestic Sawston. Harriet remains there in spirit and thus cannot transcend the place even though she visits Italy.


In Italy, Forster is able to recast traditional Italian religiosity in a new way so as to communicate something sacred. A visit to the Collegiate church in San Gimignano reveals Forster’s inspiration for the Collegiate church of Santa Deodata in Monteriano. One sees how the church becomes a place of refuge from the hot Tuscan sun, a place where cooler heads can prevail to decide how to deal with the situation left by Lilia’s begetting a child and subsequent death. In this, Forster is making use of the church as an Italian church had been used centuries before: as a place for meetings, discussions, deals, transactions, planning, and the like. Yet, in the midst of this, there is the sense that Phillip and Caroline are seeking a kind of divine intervention or assistance to remedy the situation. Such assistance comes in the Christ-like death of the baby. It is as if the baby, who is at the center of the entire situation, is sacrificed, so that by his death some resolution may be brought about. Such final resolution and closure is only realized in the scene where Caroline offers to Phillip and Gino what would have been the baby’s milk. In this symbolic act, Forster re-envisions the sacred, so that the milk becomes ‘Eucharistic,’ bringing about a healing and reconciliation between Phillip and Gino. Such a thing, it seems, would only be possible in the context of the spirituality of Italy.


To recast the sacred in the context of Italy is further undertaken by Ondaatje in his The English Patient. That the drama is set in a war torn Italian villa and its gardens evokes the imagery of Eden and suggests a kind of fallen paradise. This imagery is most poignant in the patient’s room, decorated as it is in a kind of garden-motif wallpaper. Thus, from the beginning, the patient is seen as a kind of saint, at least as far as Hana is concerned. The sacred transposed is further evidenced in Hana’s use of the chapel’s crucifix as a scarecrow. The cross is thus deconsecrated in the sense that it no longer promises eternal life, but rather ensures the continuance of earthly life through the food grown in the garden. It is within this context of the sacred transposed, within the context of this fallen Eden, that Ondaatje places his characters who are all in need of redemption.


The symbol, then, of this redemption may be seen as water. This of course is an echo of Baptism. It is a symbol that is very effective. For Hana, scarred as she is by her abortion, the death of her father, and the scourge of war, redemption is realized by her caring for the English Patient. This is most clearly seen in her washing of him, a scene evocative of Mary Magdalene’s washing the feet of Christ. The reader also sees Hana wanting to be washed of her pain as she sits in the fountain, awaiting the rush of water, in a larger sense, awaiting her final redemption that will come in the water escape in Clara’s canoe.


Kip’s presence in Italy and at the villa is curious in several respects. It is stated that, as a Sihk, he comes to Italy already in possession of his own spirituality. Despite this, or perhaps because of it, he finds himself at home, in a sense, with the company of religious statues and paintings in churches. It is in a church in Naples that he lays down to perhaps die if the city is indeed rigged to explode. Here, under the protection of angels, he finds comfort. Kip is also described as a saintly figure, yet he too is in need of redemption following the war and the death of Hardy and Lord Suffolk. This he also finds by water, in an echo of Hana’s watery redemption, by his escape by motorcycle through the rain and eventual crash into a river.


The symbol of water, as a kind of transposition of the sacred and a promise of redemption, is very effective, especially when considered in the context of where the novel is set. The desert is traditionally seen as a place of purification or preparation. It is a place to which the first monks retreated in order to be closer to God. In the Almasy’s time in the desert, the one thing needed for survival is water. This fact is underscored in his fiery crash and his burns. It is as if the desert prepares Almasy for his redemption at the hand of Hana who washes him. In the isolation of the villa, in a land that is now barren because of war, Almasy and the rest find a new kind of desert, wherein they can draw close to the sacred in search of redemption and healing.


The experience of Italy as a place, a nation, and a history forces one into a kind of contemplation of higher, spiritual things. If nothing else, the beauty of the landscape presents the problem of gratitude, and giving thanks must logically involve an indirect object. With a patrimony that exudes the sacred, Italy presents itself as the perfect context for exploring questions of profound implication, questions which are essential to one’s being human. Modern authors, in using Italy as such a context, follow in the great literary tradition of the likes of Dante and Boccaccio. In doing so, Italy is not just a setting for the exploration of the sacred. Rather Italy comes to symbolize and make present that very sacredness.

Wednesday, June 22, 2011

Of the Italian Bar

Fiesole, Italia

The Italian bar. It is a ubiquitous institution in the Boot. Part coffee shop, part watering hole, part restaurant, part gelateria, part convenience store: this is one-stop shopping, Italian style; a kind of conglomeration that is perhaps one of this country’s few efficiencies. This place might be the closest thing to Italian fast food. (I am purposely ignoring those golden arches that assault one exiting his train at Santa Maria Novella.) Yet, the Italian bar is, in reality, a bastion of a kind of ‘slow food.’


Any frenzy here is of a different sort. On entering, taking in the heavy smell of coffee and tobacco, one gets the sense that he should slow down just a bit to enjoy his coffee and his morning. Or perhaps the coffee is so eminently enjoyable that it demands a minute unto itself. There’s no rushing off with latte in hand, no drive through window. If any paper cups exist, they’re gathering dust some place and the management doesn’t know where that place is. Real porcelain cups reign supreme, complete with saucer and spoon.


So, take five and be an Italian. Order your cappuccino at the bar to avoid paying three times as much for table service. Only hipsters in Seattle have “grande” and “venti.” Here, there’s only one size: a perfect proportion of espresso and milk, probably not enough to qualify for a “kiddie size” stateside. If you’re really pressed for time, drink at the bar, otherwise grab an open table, and maybe a pastry, and linger for a while. The whole town is here: grandma, an old man reaching for a smoke, young maidens with the latest gossip, the parish priest, even the garbage men stop in for a caffe. Strike up a conversation with any one of these characters or just take it all in by yourself.


The scene is admittedly noisy, but in an exhilarating sense. Patrons shout coffee orders over already loud conversations taking place at a break neck pace (apart from driving, it seems that talking is the only thing done with any rapidity in this country). There is the constant clatter of cups and saucers and the hiss of the espresso machine. Attendants behind the bar, often clad in funny little hats, engage in a dizzying dance: taking orders, setting out saucers and spoons to be crowned with cappuccini, clearing away empty cups. The cycle repeats throughout the morning. Half of the fun lies in watching this little show. A certain order and civility emerges from this seemingly chaotic scene, a civility marked by the ability to stop for a moment and say hello to the guy making your coffee or catch up with a friend standing next to you. The bar is a neighborhood establishment; no chains or franchises here. The whole ordeal is very personal. In taking his coffee in the morning, one is actually forced to interact with those with whom he shares his daily existence. Heaven forbid!


This is real community, not in some contrived, politically correct platitudinous sense. Rather it is real people engaging each other, appreciating each other’s being in a kind of local context that is mindful of the human need for place. The Italian bar, then, represents a few moments of sanity in the craze of modern life. It remains a fixture of a more conscientious, slower life in a modern world that is all but devoid of such a thing.

Thursday, June 2, 2011

On tripe

Fiesole, Italia

Hot, dripping strips of slime. Ah! And the smell! Without a second thought you’d snarf down a link of processed meat product in Midtown, yet, somehow, this elicits hesitation.


This is the Florentine lampredotto sandwich, served from a cart on Via Dei Macci in a neighborhood devoid of tourists on the east end of town. On a beautifully ordinary Thursday morning, Florentines leisurely go about the day’s business on the street where Sergio Pollini has set up shop. As you learn that lampredotto is made with the fourth stomach of the cow, your own becomes a bit unsettled. What’s more, much to your alarm, it is revealed that some of that same bovine’s reproductive organs have curiously made their way into today’s batch.


Sergio is eager to offer you his succulent selection. There is a large pot a-boilin’ from which he extracts the finest innards. These he proceeds to chop mercilessly, a most merciful act as far as your queasy stomach is concerned. Onto a crusty roll goes the minced mess, bestrewn with salt, salsa verde, and hot chili oil. The top of the roll takes a quick bagno in the brodo and suddenly in your hand you’ve got Florence between two pieces of bread.


It wants you to eat it. Uno, due, tre…and…down she goes! Salty, spicy, slippery, the strips of stomach slink their way down your esophagus. Swallow. Perhaps a brief wave of nausea…but the flavor! It beckons another bite. (Admittedly, a swig of some libation, cold and strong, would have been ideal to wash it all down. It’s 5 o’clock somewhere, no?) The entirety of the stomach now in your own, you glance up to see a sly look of satisfaction and pride sneak up Sergio’s face.


Herein is your first taste, your first glimpse of the City of Lilies, a city that’s practical, rough around the edges, an acquired taste that you’ve acquired with a few bites. Will every experience in and of this new place be so terrible and so splendid? Perhaps, but you can’t say with certainty. What you do know is that you have found place: real people, real tradition, real food, real life on a real street corner. It is oddity. It is a thing divine. Perhaps a Deo gratias! wells up inside. This is the common man’s Florence, in a sense, the only real Florence.